Monday, January 24, 2011

Surfing for Life

Sunset Wave on assignment for the NYT

I was on a job for the New York Sunday Times Magazine
"Surfing for Life"
I photographed all the legendary surfers of the time.
Peter Cole, Woody Brown, Eve Fletcher, Fred Van Dyke, Anona Napoleon, Rabbit Kekai, Shay Bintliff, and John Kelly

It was a dream job and it was dangerous, I had been on waves 4-12ft but never 18-20.
It was a difficult job and thanks to the life guards I was able to get waterman Terry Ahui to escort me out to catch images of Peter Cole and Rabbit on the inner bowl of the Sunset Wave; one of the most difficult waves to surf in the world. Their is no doubt I wouldn't be alive if they didn't help me do my job.
Later National Geographic picked up this shot for a book about photographers favorite places.
Mine is the Blue Room.

Aloha & Mehalo
keep our waters clean

Poet Charles Bukowski once said
"The ocean is full of blues greens and sharks"
I dedicate this photo to Clem Herbert who was my favorite surfing buddy in NY.
He passed away from a fall off his skate board. Hit his head and when the ER drained the fluid from his brain he went into a coma never to awaken again.
Dalton our other buddy flew to the Canary Islands and played guitar for days to Clem hoping to wake him up. I miss him every day.
When I surf the first wave is always for Clem.
He was the most thoughtful man I've ever known.
I miss you buddy.
Surf those clouds.

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